Saturday, 13 December 2014

A REPOSITORY OF OUR COLLECTIVE MEMORY - Earls Court 1937-2014 R.I.P.



The Earls Court exhibition hall is to be demolished and replaced with a 70 acre ‘super village’, the villagers occupying ‘penthouses with floor-to-ceiling glass and roof terraces’ which the media reports as already being sold with prices beginning at £1.5m. God knows the poor huddled masses within the M25 desperately need housing and the promises of a public library, a new high street and a park are to be seen as welcome relief for them. As selfish and anti-social as it may then seem in this season of goodwill I nevertheless mourn the loss of yet another place which features so strongly in my personal memory. In this instance, given the scale of the building and the range events of events it has hosted, I would imagine that thousands will also regret its passing. For that reason alone I was surprised that the 1937 art deco building known, in recent years as Earls Court 1, was not listed. Clearly it was not recognised as a national monument but it should perhaps be remembered as having been a national institution.

It was, for example, the venue for the Royal Tournament an event which in its day may certainly be described as such an institution. As a child I recall that we watched it as a family year on year and admit that, for me, the only item of any real interest or excitement was the Field Gun competition. That, much like the varsity Boat Race, generated vocal and partisan support for the rival crews around the family hearth, despite the fact that no one knew or cared where Gosport might be. Those who weekly scratch away at the bottom of the barrel called televised light entertainment might well consider reviving the Field Gun Competition with teams comprising so-called celebrities and live ammunition.

The first time I can recall visiting Earls Court was for the International Cycle Show around about 1967 as the pubescent part of a small and unruly delegation from the Port Talbot Wheelers. I cannot recall what logic informed the day trip to London where we looked at state of the art equipment that we could not afford because we had spent the money on train tickets, refreshments and admission to the International Cycle Show. I then recall we walked for several hours trying to find Paddington Station, probably because we had no money left for Tube tickets, and caught the last train home.

Prior to that Earls Court had featured as the first real landmark you saw on a car journey to London, a looming grubby white monolith glimpsed from the A4 as you left Hammersmith and crossed the bridge to the West Cromwell Road.  It was something you looked out for, a nice shiny sixpence on offer for the first one who spotted it. Then, if travelling onward to Greenwich via the Chelsea Embankment and Vauxhall Bridge, we would pass the front of it and never failed to be impressed by the sheer scale of the façade. We might have compared it to an Odeon on Steroids but I’m not sure steroids had been invented then. It was that abiding memory of scale and solidity that perhaps led me to make the presumption of permanence- the erroneous assumption that it was as inviolable an object as Buckingham Palace.

But it was that oblique view from the A4 of Earls Court against a London sky which resonated later. When Pink Floyd released the Animals album with Battersea Power Station on the cover against such a sky it could just as well have been Earls Court, which had the same Pharaonic scale and the more direct association with the band. We probably saw them as often, if not more, at the Wembley Arena but the abiding memory is always one of Earls Court. Certainly that is the recollection of the early 70’s and the peak of their achievement with Dark Side of the Moon. It was of course where they then did The Wall which everyone thought was amazing at the time- but now realize was not really. Then later, the final Waterless shows in 1994 which dispensed with all his My Dad Died In The War For You material and served up the goods with Earls Court as a massive psychodisco. Then that was pretty much it until the one-off reunion in Hyde Park for the Bob Geldof Pension Fund in 2005.


So, the memories are there and are obviously coloured by the occasions and more than a dram of nostalgia. Leaving aside that sentiment and its indisputable place in popular culture in this country for 77 years one might still conclude that Earls Court deserved to be recognised as a piece of Britain’s heritage. My more objective memory is that it was, in truth,  a bit of a shithole with unpleasant staff and lousy, overpriced catering which, for the provincial visitor, distilled the principal features of London itself. English Heritage should have given it Grade II* as being an exemplary building of its time. 


The 'I was there' image. Their very last show (until of course the last, last one...)


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